There’s a particular kind of stress that creeps in the night before a holiday. You’ve packed, you’ve double-checked flight times, and then it hits you: is the house actually secure while it sits empty for the next week or two?

It’s a fair question. An empty home is an easy target, and holiday periods are exactly when burglars know houses are more likely to be unoccupied. The good news is that most of what makes a home a target is fixable, and a lot of it comes down to planning rather than expensive gear.

Why holidays are a genuine risk period

This isn’t just a feeling; the data backs it up. In New South Wales, the Government notes that break and enter is a slightly seasonal crime, with more offences occurring during holiday periods in January, March, and May. The same source points out that almost all break-and-enters happen when a home is unoccupied, and in 93% of incidents, offenders don’t confront anyone at all, which tells you a lot about what burglars are actually looking for: an empty house, not a confrontation.

Insurance data tells a similar story. Allianz Australia reported that theft claims spiked to $1.62 million over the two weeks covering the holiday season, 31% higher than the following two weeks. And in Victoria, the Crime Statistics Agency recorded 30,545 residential burglary offences in the year to June 2025, an increase of almost 14% on the previous year, prompting Neighbourhood Watch Victoria to specifically urge people to secure their homes before leaving on holiday.

Nationally, a separate survey found that the season with the highest reported burglary rate is summer and burglars enter through a window, with back doors the second most common entry point. That last point matters; a lot of home security effort goes into front doors, when windows and back doors are actually more commonly used to get in.

Start with what a burglar actually looks for

Before you think about locks, cameras, or security screens, it’s worth thinking like a burglar for a minute, because most break-ins aren’t the work of a determined criminal cracking a safe. They’re opportunistic. A burglar walking down your street is looking for the easiest, quietest option, and there are a few obvious signals that tell them a house is empty:

• Overflowing mail or parcels left on the doorstep
• Curtains or blinds that never open or close
• No cars in the driveway for days at a time
• Lights that are never on, even after dark
• Overgrown grass or an unusually quiet, still-looking property

None of these things individually gives it away, but together they build a picture. The goal before you leave isn’t to make your house look like a fortress; it’s to make it look like someone’s still living there.

The checklist: two weeks, two days, and the morning you leave

A week or two out, arrange the things that take a bit of coordination. Ask a neighbour, friend, or family member to collect your mail and put your bins out on the usual day. If you’re away for an extended period, consider a timer for a couple of lights, or a lamp on a smart plug that can be controlled remotely. Let a trusted neighbour know your travel dates, so they can keep an eye out for anything unusual.

A couple of days before, do a walk around the outside of your property. Trim back any bushes or trees that block the view of your doors and windows from the street; dense greenery might feel private, but it also gives a burglar cover to work unseen. Check that your outdoor lighting actually works, and consider whether a motion-sensor light near entry points is worth adding.

On the morning you leave, do a final check: all windows closed and locked (not just closed, actually locked), doors locked including any side or laundry doors, garage door down and locked, and any spare keys removed from their usual hiding spots. Hidden keys under a mat or in a fake rock are one of the first things an experienced burglar checks.

Why doors and windows deserve a proper look, not just a lock check

A standard door or window lock is a good baseline, but it’s designed to keep an honest person honest; it’s not built to resist someone determined to force their way in, and with 31% of burglars in Australian surveys entering via a window, this is worth taking seriously.

This is where a genuine Baulkham Hills security screens and doors earns its place. Unlike a standard flyscreen or a decorative grille, a certified security screen is tested to resist forced entry, things like kicking, prying, or cutting through the mesh, rather than just keeping insects out. If you’re weighing up whether it’s worth the investment, it’s worth remembering that these products protect your home every day of the year, not just while you’re away. But their value is most obvious during exactly the situation described above: a home sitting empty, unattended, for days or weeks at a time, with nobody there to notice or respond if something goes wrong.

If you’re considering adding security screens or doors to your home, going on holiday is often the moment that turns “we should really look into that” into an actual decision. It’s a reasonable prompt, but the best time to have security screens fitted is well before you’re standing at the front door with a suitcase in hand, wondering if you’ve done enough.

Before you go

A secure home while you’re away isn’t about one single thing, it’s the combination of a few simple habits (mail, lights, a trusted neighbour) and a few structural upgrades (locks, screens, doors) that actually hold up under pressure. Get both right, and you can enjoy your holiday without one eye on your home security system the whole time.

Building a new home comes with a long list of decisions. Kitchen benchtops, tile colours, tapware finishes- it’s easy for security to slip down the priority list until the very end, if it makes the list at all. But security screens and doors are one of those things that are far easier, cheaper, and better looking when they’re planned early rather than bolted on as an afterthought.

Here’s a practical guide to when security should enter the conversation, and why it’s worth bringing up sooner than you might think.

Why security is worth thinking about at all

It’s easy to assume break-ins are rare or that they only happen to other people. The numbers say otherwise. According to the Australian Bureau of Statistics, the proportion of households broken into rose from 1.8% in 2022–23 to 2.1% in 2023–24, an extra 32,000 households, bringing the national total to 218,000. Of those households, one in five was broken into more than once.

A separate national survey backs this up from the homeowner’s perspective: almost 8% of Australians surveyed said they’d experienced a break-in or attempted break-in in the past 12 months, and nearly two-thirds of those also had packages stolen from outside their homes. Perhaps most telling, that same survey found that people who’d experienced a break-in said they’d pay substantially more to live in a safer suburb, a reminder of just how much security weighs on people once they’ve had a bad experience.

None of this is meant to alarm you. It’s simply the case for treating security as a genuine part of the build, not a box to tick at the last minute.

Stage one: at the design and quoting stage

This is, by far, the best time to think about security screens and doors, while the house is still on paper.

At this stage, your builder or draftsperson can factor Burwood security doors and screens into the door and window schedule from the start. That means the right frame sizes, the right hinge placement, and screens that are designed to match the sightlines of your windows rather than sit awkwardly over them later.

Getting it right at design stage also means you can choose where security doors go before walls, plaster, and architraves are finished. Front doors, back doors, and any sliding doors leading to a deck or patio are the obvious candidates, but don’t overlook laundry doors or side access doors; these are common, quiet entry points that are easy to forget.

Stage two: once windows and doors are chosen, but before they’re installed

If you’ve missed the initial design conversation, this is your next best window (no pun intended). Once you know the exact door and window styles, sizes, and opening types you’re using, a security screen supplier can measure and manufacture screens that are built to fit, rather than a generic size that’s modified on site.

This is also the stage to think about mesh type. Stainless steel mesh, for example, holds up much better in coastal areas where salt air causes faster corrosion. If your build is anywhere near the coast, this is worth raising with your supplier directly rather than assuming a standard product will do the job long-term.

Stage three: just before handover

Even at this late stage, it’s not too late, but your options narrow. Screens can still be measured and fitted to existing frames, though retrofitting sometimes means working around trims, locks, or hardware that’s already installed. It generally costs more than building security in from the start, simply because it involves extra labour and, occasionally, minor adjustments to existing fittings.

If you’re at this stage, the priority should be your most-used entry points first: front door, back door, and any sliding doors that open onto outdoor living areas.

What “security” actually means in a screen or door

Not every screen that looks tough actually is. In Australia, genuine security screens and doors are tested and certified against AS 5039, the Australian Standard covering security screen doors and window grilles. To meet it, a product has to pass a series of physical tests, including knife shear, impact, anti-jemmy, pull, probe and shear testing, carried out in an independent, accredited laboratory.

If a screen hasn’t been tested and certified to this standard, it’s classified differently, often as a “safety” or “barrier” screen. According to the National Security Screen Association, screens that don’t meet AS 5039 and AS 5041 are simply barrier, safety, or fly screens, and are good at keeping insects out, but shouldn’t be relied on to withstand a forced entry attempt. It’s a useful distinction to keep in mind when you’re comparing quotes, because “security” can be used quite loosely in marketing even when a product hasn’t actually been tested for it.

It’s also worth knowing that compliance covers installation as well as the product itself. The NSSA notes that a correctly certified security door should have at least three fixed-pin hinges, and that fitting is meant to be done by a licensed installer rather than as a DIY job, since incorrect installation can undermine an otherwise compliant product.

A few practical questions to ask your builder or supplier

• Can security screens and doors be included in the initial design and quoting stage, rather than added later?
• Are the products you’re quoting certified to AS 5039, and can you see the compliance label?
• What mesh type is recommended for your location, particularly if you’re near the coast?
• How many hinges are used, and are they fixed-pin?
• Who’s doing the installation, and are they licensed for security screen fitting?

The bottom line

Security screens and doors aren’t the most exciting part of a new build, but they’re far easier to get right when they’re planned alongside your doors and windows rather than added after the fact. Raising it early costs you nothing but a conversation, and it can save you a more expensive, more disruptive retrofit down the track.

If you’ve got a dog that treats the back door like a starting gate, or a cat who thinks every screen is a scratching post, you’ve probably wondered if “pet-resistant” fly screens are worth the extra money. Or are they just a marketing label slapped on ordinary mesh?

The short answer: good pet-resistant mesh really does hold up better than standard fly screen mesh. But “pet-resistant” isn’t one fixed standard, and not all products marketed this way are built the same. Here’s what’s actually going on, and how to tell the difference before you buy.

Why standard fly screens don’t stand a chance

Ordinary fly screen mesh is designed to do one job: keep insects out while letting air through. It’s usually a light fibreglass weave, chosen because it’s cheap, doesn’t rust, and is easy to see through. None of that has anything to do with strength.

A cat’s claws or a dog jumping up at a screen door puts a completely different kind of stress on the mesh than a mosquito ever will. Fibreglass mesh tears easily under a scratch or a paw impact, and once one strand gives way, the hole spreads fast. If you’ve ever found a shredded screen after your dog got excited about someone at the door, this is why.

What “pet-resistant” mesh is actually made from

Pet-resistant screens swap that flimsy fibreglass for a tougher woven material, most commonly PVC-coated polyester or a similar vinyl-coated weave. This type of mesh is made from vinyl-coated polyester specifically to withstand pet scratches, and industry comparisons rate it as highly resistant to scratches and pet damage, more durable in homes with pets, and lower maintenance over time. It’s thicker, more flexible, and the coating helps the fibres resist tearing when a claw catches on them.

The trade-off is worth knowing about too: this heavier weave can mean somewhat reduced airflow and a higher price tag compared with standard fibreglass screens. So you’re not getting something for nothing, you’re trading a bit of ventilation and cost for a lot more durability.

It’s also worth knowing that pet-resistant mesh and security mesh are not the same thing, even though a lot of pet owners are shopping for both at once. Pet mesh is built to survive claws and paws. Security mesh is a different product entirely, built to resist deliberate forced entry, and it’s tested to a completely different standard, more on that below.

Does the toughness claim hold up to testing?

This is where it gets interesting for anyone comparing products. Genuine pet-resistant mesh isn’t just tougher because a brand says so, some products are put through recognised flame and durability testing overseas. One well-known pet-resistant screen product has passed ASTM requirements D3656 and D6413 as well as ISO 11925-2, making it a flame-resistant pet screen backed by third-party test standards rather than just a marketing claim.

In Australia, if you’re buying a screen that’s marketed as pet-resistant and security-rated, the security side of that claim should be backed by AS 5039, the Australian Standard covering security screens doors and window screens. Under this standard, screens go through six separate tests in an accredited lab, including a knife shear test, an impact test, and tests for jemmying, pulling, probing and shearing, each designed to simulate a real method of forced entry.

Two dynamic impact ratings now exist under the standard, SL100 and SL200, and to earn the higher SL200 rating a product has to withstand five impacts of 200 joules each, double the previous benchmark. You can check the details of the standard yourself via Standards Australia.

The takeaway: a “pet-resistant” label alone tells you the mesh should survive claws. It says nothing about forced entry. If home security is part of why you’re screening your doors and windows, look for AS 5039 compliance specifically, not just a pet-friendly claim.

Why this matters more than it used to

Pet ownership in Australia has climbed sharply in recent years. As of March 2025, an estimated 7.7 million Australian households have a pet, which equates to 73% of all households, up from 69% in 2022 and 61% back in 2019. Dogs remain the most common pet, found in around half of all households (49%), while cats are in roughly a third (34%). You can see the full breakdown in Animal Medicines Australia’s Pets in Australia report.

With that many homes juggling pets and security needs at once, it’s no surprise manufacturers have leaned into pet-friendly ranges. But it also means there’s more marketing noise to wade through when you’re trying to work out what will actually last.

So, do they work?

Yes, with the right expectations. A properly made pet-resistant screen, using a genuine vinyl-coated or polyester weave rather than standard fibreglass, will noticeably outlast an ordinary screen in a house with an active dog or a cat that likes to climb. It won’t be indestructible, and a big, determined dog throwing its full weight at a door will eventually find the limits of any fabric mesh, pet-resistant or not.

If that’s a concern, ask about pairing pet-resistant mesh with a stronger aluminium or diamond-grille security frame, or stepping up to a full security screen rated to AS 5039 for the doors your pets use most. That combination covers both problems at once: every day wear and tear from your pets, and genuine resistance to forced entry.

Questions to ask before you buy

• Is the mesh vinyl-coated polyester or PVC-coated, rather than plain fibreglass?
• Has the product been independently tested, and can the supplier show you the results?
• If security matters to you, is the screen certified to AS 5039, and at what security level (SL100 or SL200)?
• How was it installed, was it fitted by a licensed installer, since correct installation is part of meeting the standard?
• What’s covered under warranty if your pet does eventually damage it?

A few honest questions like these will tell you more than any product description. Pet-resistant screens are a real improvement over standard mesh, just make sure you know exactly what you’re paying for, and whether it’s doing the security job too, before you commit.

If you’ve spent any time looking into home security lately, you’ve probably come across retractable fly screens. They sit somewhere between a plain flyscreen and a full security door, and for a lot of homeowners, that middle ground is exactly where the confusion starts. Do they actually keep bugs out? Do they add any real security? And are they worth the money compared to a standard security screen?

Let’s break it down properly.

What a retractable fly screen actually is

A retractable fly screen is a mesh screen that slides or rolls out of a small housing unit when you need it, and tucks away out of sight when you don’t. You’ll find them on sliding doors, French doors, and sometimes large windows. Unlike a fixed flyscreen, which is permanently in place, a retractable one only comes out when you pull it across.

The main selling point is convenience. You get an unobstructed view and full use of your doorway when the screen is retracted, and insect protection the moment you need it. For homes with a big alfresco area or a sliding door that opens onto a pool or garden, this matters more than people expect. A fixed screen door on a frequently used entry can feel like a hassle every single day. A retractable one removes that friction entirely.

Where retractable screens fall short on security

Here’s the part that matters most if security is your main concern: a retractable fly screen is not a security door, and it was never designed to be one. The mesh is thin, the frame is lightweight, and the whole system is built to be easy to slide, not hard to force open. Compare that to a proper security screen, which uses a stronger mesh (often stainless steel) and is fixed into a reinforced frame designed to resist forced entry.

This distinction is more important than it might seem, because of where burglars actually get in. According to the Australian Bureau of Statistics, an estimated 3.5% of Australian households experienced a break-in or attempted break-in during the 2020–21 financial year, and when something is damaged during an attempt, it’s usually a window or door that’s been tampered with or broken.

Doors and windows are the entry points burglars target first, which means whatever you fit to them needs to actually hold up. A national survey by Compare the Market found that windows are the most common point of entry in Australian burglaries, used in 31% of cases, with back doors close behind at 27%.

If your sliding door only has a retractable fly screen on it, that door is essentially unprotected from a security standpoint. The screen might slow someone down for a second or two, but it won’t stop a determined intruder, and it’s not designed to.

Where they genuinely earn their keep

None of this means retractable fly screens are a bad product; they’re just not the right tool for the job of keeping your home secure. Where they do shine is in liveability. If you’ve got a large sliding door that leads to an outdoor entertaining area, a retractable screen lets you keep that space open and bug-free through summer without permanently blocking the view or airflow the rest of the year.

They also tend to be more affordable than heavy-duty security screens, and installation is usually quicker since you’re not dealing with the same structural reinforcement. For homes where insects are the main daily annoyance and security is being handled elsewhere (say, a monitored alarm, deadlocks, or security screens on other high-risk entry points), a retractable screen can be a genuinely good addition. Whichever screens you choose, a little upkeep keeps them working. Here’s how to clean and maintain your screens.

The safer approach: use both, in the right places

Long-running research from the Australian Institute of Criminology has looked at what actually discourages burglars, and one consistent theme comes up again and again: opportunistic burglars are looking for the easiest target on the street, and physical barriers like security screens and deadlocks are enough to make many of them move on.

That’s the mindset worth adopting here. Instead of treating retractable fly screens as an either-or decision against security screens, think about where each one belongs:

• High-risk entry points, front doors, back doors, ground-floor windows, and sliding doors that are hidden from street view deserve a proper security screen with a certified mesh and reinforced frame.
• Lower-risk or lifestyle-focused openings, such as a sliding door onto a private, well-lit courtyard where security is already covered elsewhere, can reasonably use a retractable screen for comfort and convenience. Still hearing conflicting advice about security doors generally? We’ve busted the most common security door myths.

Many homeowners end up doing exactly this: fitting Parramatta security screens to the doors and windows that are the real vulnerabilities and reserving retractable screens for the areas where daily convenience matters more.

So, are they worth it?

Yes, but only if you’re clear on what you’re buying them for. As a comfort upgrade, retractable fly screens are genuinely worth it. They cut down on flies and mosquitoes without permanently changing how your doorway looks or functions, and for homes with a lot of outdoor living space, that’s a real quality-of-life improvement. If you’re auditing your whole home, it’s worth knowing where the weakest points of entry actually are.

As a security measure, they’re not worth relying on. If keeping your home safer is the priority, that job belongs to a proper security door or screen, fitted to the entry points burglars actually target. The good news is you don’t have to choose one over the other for your whole house. Match the product to the purpose, door by door, and you get the best of both: a home that’s comfortable to live in and genuinely harder to break into.

If you’re weighing up your options, it’s worth getting a security specialist to walk through your home with you. They can point out which doors and windows are your weak spots, and where a retractable screen would actually be the sensible choice rather than a compromise.

Most people don’t think much about their fence until it starts letting them down. A paling comes loose, a gate starts sagging, or you notice the whole thing needs repainting again, and you realise it’s been an ongoing job rather than a one-time purchase.

If you’re weighing up fencing options for your home, particularly if security is part of the reason you’re looking, it’s worth understanding the real difference between timber and aluminium, not just how they look on day one, but how they hold up over the years that follow. For a broader look at hardening every part of your home, see our guide to security upgrades for each room.

The Timber Trap: Cheap to Start, Costly to Keep

Timber has an obvious appeal. It’s a natural material, it looks warm, and it’s usually the cheapest option to install. According to a 2025 cost guide for Australian fencing, homeowners can expect to pay $75 to $120 per metre for installed timber fencing, compared with $120 to $150 per metre for aluminium. On the surface, timber looks like the budget-friendly choice.

But that upfront saving doesn’t tell the whole story. Timber fences need ongoing care to stay looking good and structurally sound, regular sealing, staining, or painting to prevent rot, warping, and pest damage. Skip that maintenance, and a fence can deteriorate a lot faster than people expect.

This is where the real cost of timber starts to show. As one Sydney fencing guide puts it, many homeowners don’t realise the long-term costs until their fence begins to rot, warp, or need constant repainting. Add up a decade or two of sealant, paint, replacement palings, and the odd section that needs rebuilding after a storm, and that initial price gap between timber and aluminium starts to look a lot smaller, or disappears altogether. If you’re weighing aluminium against another popular option, see our comparison of aluminium versus Colorbond fencing.

The Termite Problem Nobody Wants to Talk About

There’s another factor that makes timber a genuine gamble for Australian homeowners, and it’s one that doesn’t get mentioned nearly enough: termites.

Termite damage is a serious and widespread issue across the country. Industry data suggests these pests infest and damage approximately one in every five houses in Australia, affecting between 130,000 and 180,000 homes each year. The financial impact is significant too; a UTS-cited estimate puts the annual cost of termite damage to Australian homeowners at around $1.5 billion, and separate figures put the average termite damage repair bill at around $10,000 per affected home.

Here’s the part that matters most for anyone comparing fencing materials: termite damage isn’t covered by standard home insurance policies. That means if termites work their way through a timber fence, or worse, use it as a bridge into your home’s structure, you’re footing that bill yourself. Aluminium simply removes this risk entirely. Termites have no interest in a material that isn’t made of cellulose, so a fence that can’t rot also can’t be eaten.

Weather Doesn’t Play Favourites With Timber Either

Termites aside, timber also has to contend with Australia’s climate, which isn’t always kind to it. Homes near the coast face a particular challenge, since salt air is one of the more aggressive causes of timber deterioration, speeding up the breakdown of wood that would otherwise last for years inland.

Even away from the coast, timber fencing has to deal with harsh sun, heavy rain, and big temperature swings, all of which contribute to warping, splitting, and fading over time. Aluminium, by contrast, doesn’t rust, doesn’t corrode, and isn’t affected by UV exposure the way timber and even some other metals are. Whether your home is by the beach or inland, it holds its shape and finish with very little upkeep. If you’re right on the coast, salt air adds another layer to consider. Here’s why aluminium fencing suits coastal homes.

What “Low Maintenance” Actually Looks Like

It’s one thing to say aluminium is low maintenance. It’s more useful to know what that actually means day to day.

With a timber fence, ongoing care usually means:

• Sanding back and repainting or restaining every few years
• Treating for rot, mould, or termite prevention
• Replacing individual palings as they crack, warp, or come loose
• Checking and reinforcing posts as timber weakens at ground level over time

With an aluminium fence, maintenance is typically limited to:

• An occasional wash down to keep it looking clean
• No repainting, resealing, or pest treatments required

That difference adds up not just in dollars, but in time, time you’re not spending on weekend maintenance jobs, and money you’re not putting toward materials and tradespeople every few years.

Longevity: The Numbers Tell the Story

If you’re thinking about your fence as a long-term investment rather than a short-term fix, the lifespan comparison is worth paying attention to. Industry guides on Australian fencing materials put aluminium fencing at a lifespan of 30 to 50 years with no rust, while timber fences, without consistent and proper care, tend to deteriorate considerably faster and often need partial or full replacement well before that mark.

Over the life of a home, that difference can mean replacing a timber fence multiple times for every one aluminium fence you’d need. When you factor that into the total cost, not just the price per metre on day one, aluminium’s higher upfront cost becomes a much easier decision.

Security Matters Too

For homeowners specifically thinking about fencing as part of their overall home security, aluminium has another advantage worth mentioning: it doesn’t weaken with age the way timber does. A rotting fence paling or a post softened by termite damage is far easier to force open or break through than sound aluminium. If your fence is meant to be a genuine barrier around your property, not just a visual boundary, its structural integrity matters just as much as its appearance.

The Bottom Line

Timber fencing might look like the cheaper option when you’re comparing quotes, but that price doesn’t account for what happens over the next 10, 15, or 20 years. Between weather damage, the real risk of termites, and the ongoing cost of maintenance, timber often ends up costing more over its lifetime, not less.

Aluminium costs more to install, but it asks almost nothing of you afterwards. No repainting, no sealing, no termite treatments, and a lifespan that can outlast two or three timber fences put together. For homeowners who want a fence that still looks and performs the same way in twenty years as it did on day one, aluminium isn’t just the low-maintenance choice; it’s the one that actually saves you money in the long run.

There’s a lot to love about living near the ocean. The sea breeze, the salt air, the short stroll to the beach on a Saturday morning. But anyone who has owned a home near the Australian coast will tell you that the same salt air that makes coastal living so pleasant is quietly working against almost everything metal on your property. Gates seize up. Steel fences rust from the inside out. Screws stain and streak.

If you’re weighing up a new fence, perhaps as part of a wider effort to secure your home along with new security doors and screens, the material you choose matters more on the coast than anywhere else in the country. And for coastal homes, aluminium is very hard to beat. Here’s why.

Most of us live where the salt is

Coastal living isn’t a niche lifestyle in Australia; it’s the norm. According to the Australian Government’s 2021 State of the Environment report, 87 per cent of Australia’s population lives within 50 kilometres of the coast, more than 22 million people.

That means the majority of Australian homes sit inside the zone where airborne salt is a daily reality. Salt spray doesn’t just affect houses on the beachfront. Wind carries fine salt particles well inland, settling on every outdoor surface it touches. If your fence is made from a material that reacts badly to salt, the countdown to rust starts the day it’s installed.

The real cost of rust

Corrosion isn’t a minor cosmetic issue. It’s one of the most expensive problems in the country. The Australasian Corrosion Association estimates that corrosion costs Australia up to $78 billion every year across industries and infrastructure.

For a homeowner, the costs show up in smaller but painful ways: repainting a steel fence every few years, replacing rusted panels, fixing gates that no longer close properly, or ripping out an entire fence a decade earlier than expected. On the coast, all of that happens faster.

This is where aluminium earns its reputation. Unlike steel, aluminium doesn’t rust. When it’s exposed to air, it forms a thin, invisible protective layer on its surface almost instantly, and that layer keeps the metal underneath safe. If the surface gets scratched, the layer re-forms on its own. Add a quality powder-coated finish, standard on good aluminium fencing, and you have a fence built to shrug off salt air for decades, not years. If you’re weighing up materials more broadly, see our full comparison of aluminium versus Colorbond fencing.

Security that doesn’t weaken over time

If you’re already thinking about security doors and screens, your fence deserves a place in the same conversation. A fence is the first physical barrier anyone meets before they ever reach your door, and a sturdy, well-maintained perimeter is a genuine deterrent.

Home security isn’t an abstract worry, either. The Australian Bureau of Statistics’ latest Crime Victimisation survey found that 1.8 per cent of Australian households, around 196,600 homes, experienced a break-in during 2024–25.

Here’s the problem with a rusting fence: it gets weaker every year. Corroded steel loses its strength, fixings fail, and panels loosen, which is exactly what an opportunistic intruder looks for. An aluminium fence keeps its structural integrity because the material simply doesn’t degrade the same way. Pair it with a lockable aluminium gate, and your perimeter stays as solid in year fifteen as it was in year one. Many homeowners choose matching aluminium security doors and screens for the same reason: one material, one standard of protection, front to back. Whatever you choose, regular care keeps it performing. Here’s how to clean and maintain your screens.

Almost no maintenance, which matters at the beach

Ask anyone with a timber or steel fence near the water how their weekends go. Timber needs regular oiling or painting to survive salt air and humidity, and it’s prone to warping and splitting. Steel needs rust treatment, priming and repainting on a rolling schedule.

Aluminium asks for almost nothing. An occasional wash with a hose or a bucket of soapy water to remove salt build-up is genuinely all it takes. There’s no sanding, no painting, no rust converter, no replacing rotten palings. For time-poor households, or anyone who would rather spend Sunday at the beach than up a ladder with a paintbrush, that’s a compelling argument on its own. That low upkeep holds up inland too, see why aluminium beats timber on maintenance.

Light to handle, strong where it counts

Aluminium is much lighter than steel, which brings a few practical advantages. Installation is quicker and often cheaper. Gates swing easily and put less strain on hinges and posts, so they stay aligned for longer. And despite its light weight, modern aluminium fencing is engineered to meet Australian standards, including the strict requirements for pool fencing, one of the reasons it has become the go-to material for pool barriers across the country.

It’s also worth noting that aluminium won’t burn, won’t attract termites, and won’t feed mould, three problems that regularly shorten the life of timber fences in coastal climates.

Good looks that last, and a lighter footprint

Powder-coated aluminium comes in a wide range of colours and styles, from classic tubular designs to sleek slat panels and semi-private screens. Because the colour is bonded to the metal rather than painted on, it resists fading, chipping and peeling far better than painted steel, even under harsh Australian UV.

There’s an environmental upside too. Aluminium is one of the most recyclable materials in common use, it can be melted down and reused again and again without losing quality. When your fence does eventually reach the end of its very long life, it won’t end up as landfill.

The bottom line for coastal homeowners

Choosing a fence for a coastal home comes down to one honest question: how will this material handle salt, sun and time? Timber struggles. Steel fights a losing battle with rust. Aluminium, by contrast, is naturally suited to exactly the conditions most Australians live in.

It won’t rust, it barely needs maintenance, it keeps its strength, and its security value, for decades, and it looks sharp doing it. If you’re upgrading your home’s protection with Parramatta security doors and screens, a quality aluminium fence is the logical way to complete the picture. For the 87 per cent of us who call the coast home, it’s not just a good option. It’s the obvious one.

If you’ve got young children and an aluminium gate somewhere on your property, it’s worth thinking about more than just how good it looks. A gate that isn’t properly secured is one of the easiest ways for a toddler to wander off, get into the pool area, or reach the street without anyone noticing.

This isn’t about being an anxious parent. It’s just good sense. Aluminium gates are popular because they’re light, don’t rust, and last for years without much upkeep, but “durable” and “child-safe” aren’t the same thing. A gate can be perfectly solid and still have a gap a small hand can slip through, a latch a curious three-year-old can figure out, or hinges that let it swing the wrong way. Here’s how to fix all of that. A well-chosen gate does more than keep kids safe, it also shapes how your home looks from the street. See how an aluminium gate can boost your kerb appeal.

Why gates matter more than most people think

It’s easy to assume that drownings and backyard accidents happen because a pool fence was missing altogether. In reality, the data tells a different story. According to Royal Life Saving Australia’s Keep Watch campaign, most young children who drowned in a backyard pool over the past decade got there through a gate that had been propped open or hadn’t latched properly, not through a fence with no barrier at all.

Royal Life Saving’s own research backs this up further. Looking at 20 years of data, the organisation found that the majority of children who drowned in backyard pools accessed the water through a gate that wasn’t closed properly, according to a Royal Life Saving report on child drowning trends. The same research found that one-year-olds are especially at risk, making up close to half of all drowning deaths in children under five, right around the age when kids start walking, climbing, and testing every gate and door they come across.

The encouraging news is that fencing works. Drowning rates for children under five have fallen by well over half over the past two decades, a trend Royal Life Saving links directly to mandatory pool fencing laws and better public awareness. In other words, a well-maintained gate isn’t a nice-to-have. It’s doing real, measurable work.

Start with the latch

The latch is usually the weakest link on an aluminium gate, and it’s the first thing to check. Look for:

• A self-closing, self-latching mechanism. The gate should swing shut and lock on its own, even if someone forgets to push it closed.
• A release handle set high enough. Australian pool fencing rules require the release to sit at least 1.5 metres off the ground, well out of reach of a small child, even one who’s learned to climb.
• No gaps or ledges nearby. Anything a child could use as a foothold, pot plants, low furniture, garden edging, should be kept at least 900mm from the gate and fence line.

If your current latch sits low, wobbles, or can be jiggled open, it’s worth replacing before anything else on this list.

Check the gaps and the swing direction

Small children are surprisingly good at finding their way through spaces adults would never think to check. Under Australia’s pool safety standard, vertical gaps in fencing and gates shouldn’t be wider than 100mm, and there shouldn’t be a gap larger than 100mm between the bottom of the gate and the ground. Run a tape measure along yours. Aluminium gates can develop small amounts of sag over time, especially with cheaper hinges, and a gap that started at 90mm can creep wider.

Direction matters too. A gate that opens outward, away from a pool or the street, is safer than one that swings inward, since it’s harder for a small child to push open from the wrong side. If yours swings the wrong way, this is usually a straightforward fix for a fencing installer, rather than something that needs a full gate replacement. Height matters for security too, see our guide to choosing the right gate height.

Don’t overlook the hinges

Hinges take a lot of quiet wear over the years: sun, rain, and the constant back-and-forth of daily use. A gate with worn hinges can droop, which widens the bottom gap and makes the latch misalign. Spring-loaded, adjustable hinges are worth the small extra cost, since they let you fine-tune how firmly the gate closes and how quickly it swings shut. Give the gate a physical shake every few months. If it feels loose at the hinge post, that’s a sign it needs tightening or replacing before it becomes a real gap for little hands or feet.

Think about visibility and climbability

Solid aluminium panels are great for privacy, but they can also work against safety in one specific way: children can’t see what’s on the other side, which sometimes makes them more curious to open the gate and find out. A gate with narrow vertical slats, rather than horizontal rails, is a better choice too, since horizontal bars are basically a ladder for a determined toddler.

Make it part of a bigger safety habit

A well-fitted gate does most of the work, but it isn’t a substitute for keeping an eye on young kids around water, driveways, and the street. Royal Life Saving Australia’s advice is simple: supervise actively, restrict access with a working barrier, teach basic water safety as children get older, and know how to respond in an emergency. None of that replaces the gate; it just means the gate isn’t carrying the job on its own.

Bringing it together

If you’re already looking at security doors and screens to protect your home, it makes sense to give the same attention to your gates. A secure front door means little if a side gate lets a toddler wander onto the street, and a fully compliant pool fence means little if the gate doesn’t latch properly. Whether you’re upgrading an existing aluminium gate or installing a new one, the checklist is the same: a self-latching mechanism with a high release, gaps no wider than 100mm, hinges in good condition, and a swing direction that works in your child’s favour. If you’re also weighing up automating your gate, here’s whether automated gates are worth the investment.

It’s a small job compared to the peace of mind it buys,and the research suggests that peace of mind is well founded.

A gate is one of those things you don’t think about much until you’re standing in the driveway trying to decide between three different heights at the hardware store. Too low, and it barely does anything beyond marking where your property starts. Too high, and you might be looking at council paperwork you didn’t know you needed, plus a front yard that feels more like a fortress than a home.

Getting the height right isn’t just about looks. It affects how private your yard feels, how well it actually deters anyone thinking about walking in uninvited, and whether you’re allowed to build it in the first place.

The regulations you need to know before you decide

In New South Wales, front fences and gates facing the street are generally capped at 1.2 metres without needing council approval, while side and rear boundary fences can go up to 1.8 metres under the same exempt development rules (Sydney Landscaping’s summary of NSW planning rules). These limits exist for practical reasons, mainly keeping sightlines clear for drivers and pedestrians near driveways and intersections, and maintaining a streetscape that doesn’t feel closed off.

That means your front gate and your side gate are playing two different roles, and the rules reflect that. The front is about balance, enough height to define your property and add a layer of security, without blocking the street view or triggering a development application. The side and rear gates can go taller, because that’s where privacy actually matters most, and where a good height makes the biggest difference to how secure your yard feels.

Every council has its own variations on these baseline figures, particularly around corner blocks, heritage zones, and secondary road frontages, so it’s worth a quick check with your local council before you commit to a height and a material. Height is only one part of the decision, see our comparison of sliding vs. swing gates.

Why height alone doesn’t guarantee security

It’s tempting to think taller automatically means safer. It doesn’t quite work that way. Research from the Australian Institute of Criminology, based on interviews with convicted burglars, found that high fences, walls, and dense hedging around a property can actually work against the homeowner; offenders reported that once they were on the property, they felt hidden from neighbours by high walls, fences, trees, and gardens (Australian Institute of Criminology). In other words, a gate or fence tall enough to block your view can also block everyone else’s view of anyone trying to get in.

This doesn’t mean you should aim low. It means the height needs to work together with visibility and a solid barrier, rather than height being the only factor you weigh up. A gate that’s tall enough for genuine privacy but paired with good lighting, clear sightlines near the entry point, and a lock or latch that actually resists tampering does far more than height by itself.

Matching gate height to what you actually want to achieve

If your main goal is privacy from the street. A gate around 1.8 metres on side and rear boundaries gives you a genuinely private backyard, without blocking your front yard’s connection to the street (where the shorter 1.2 metre limit usually applies anyway). This height stops casual eye contact from the footpath while still leaving room for a solid gate frame and a decent lock.

If your main goal is keeping young kids or pets contained. Height matters less here than gaps and gate spacing. A shorter gate with narrow palings or mesh, and a self-closing latch, usually does more good than a tall gate with wide gaps a small dog can squeeze through. If a pool or young children are part of the picture, see our full guide to childproofing your aluminium gate.

If your main goal is deterring anyone from testing your side or back entry. This is where height and strength need to be considered together. A gate that’s easy to see over is easy to case from the footpath; one that’s too high to see over at all can hide someone once they’re already inside your yard. A height around 1.8 metres, paired with a well-built frame and a quality lock, tends to strike the right balance for most suburban blocks.

The gate is only as good as what it’s attached to

A well-chosen gate height means very little if the fence beside it, or the door behind it, is the weak point. This is where a lot of homeowners spend money on the fence and gate, then leave the actual entry points into the house, sliding doors, side doors, and back doors,  with nothing stronger than a standard lock. If you’re already thinking about your property’s perimeter, it’s worth extending that thinking to your doors as well. A well-fitted security door or screen at your main entry points gives you the same kind of layered protection that a well-chosen Inner West Sydney gate gives your yard: not something that’s impossible to get past, but something that takes enough time and effort that most opportunistic attempts move on elsewhere.

Getting the balance right

A well-chosen gate height means very little if the fence beside it, or the door behind it, is the weak point. This is where a lot of homeowners spend money on the fence and gate, then leave the actual entry points into the house, sliding doors, side doors, and back doors,  with nothing stronger than a standard lock. If you’re already thinking about your property’s perimeter, it’s worth extending that thinking to your doors as well. A well-fitted security door or screen at your main entry points gives you the same kind of layered protection that a well-chosen Inner West Sydney gate gives your yard: not something that’s impossible to get past, but something that takes enough time and effort that most opportunistic attempts move on elsewhere. Beyond height and strength, the right gate also lifts your street appeal, see how an aluminium gate can boost kerb appeal.

Get all of that working together, and the actual number on the tape measure becomes a lot less stressful to land on.

Your fence is the first line of defence around your property, so it’s worth thinking about it the same way you’d think about a security door or window screen. It sets the boundary, adds privacy, and can make a real difference to how safe your home feels. But when it comes to choosing a material, most Australian homeowners land on one of two options: aluminium or Colorbond steel. Both are popular, both are built for our climate, and both have genuine strengths. The right choice really comes down to what you need most from your fence. Curious how much difference a security door really makes? Here’s what the data says.

Two Materials, Two Different Strengths

Colorbond is steel with a Zincalume core (a mix of zinc and aluminium) and a factory-baked paint finish. It’s been a fixture of Australian backyards for decades, largely because it holds up so well against local conditions. Aluminium, on the other hand, is lighter, naturally rust-resistant, and often chosen for its cleaner, more modern look.

According to fencing comparisons from providers across Melbourne and Perth, Colorbond generally wins on strength and impact resistance, while aluminium performs better in coastal or humid environments where corrosion is the bigger risk (Pentagon Fencing, 2025). If your home is a few streets back from the beach, that difference matters more than it might seem. We go into more detail on why aluminium fencing is perfect for coastal Australian homes.

Durability and Lifespan

This is where the two materials are closer than people expect. Industry data suggests aluminium fencing can last 30 to 50 years without rusting, while Colorbond typically lasts 20 to 30 years with minimal maintenance (Cost Comparison Fencing Materials Australia, 2026). Both are a long-term investment rather than a fence you’ll be replacing every decade, which puts them well ahead of timber, which usually needs replacing or heavily maintaining after 10 to 15 years. If low maintenance is your main priority, see our full comparison of aluminium versus timber fencing.

Where Colorbond pulls ahead is impact resistance. Because it’s a solid steel panel, it stands up better to a stray football, a reversing car, or someone trying to force their way through. Aluminium, especially slatted or tubular designs, is more likely to dent under pressure. If security and toughness are your top priority, this is worth weighing carefully.

Privacy and Security

For homeowners thinking about security as much as style, this is arguably the most important difference. Colorbond panels sit flush against each other, so there are no gaps to see through and nowhere for a would-be intruder to get a foothold. It’s also difficult to climb, which is part of why it’s such a common choice for boundary fencing around Australian homes. Aluminium slat and blade designs, by comparison, often leave small gaps for airflow and light, which looks great but can mean less complete privacy and, in some cases, easier visibility into the yard.

If you’re weighing up a new fence alongside other home security upgrades, like a security door or window screens, it’s worth thinking about how each piece fits together. A solid Colorbond fence paired with a well-fitted security door creates a much harder target for anyone casing a property than a stylish but see-through aluminium fence would.

Weather and Location

Australia’s weather doesn’t do anything by halves, and your location should genuinely influence your choice. Colorbond is rated to withstand winds of up to 150 km/h when properly installed, and it’s a non-combustible material, which makes it a solid option in bushfire-prone areas. Aluminium is also non-combustible and holds up extremely well against salt air, making it a strong pick for coastal properties in places like Perth, where the ocean breeze can wreak havoc on lesser materials (SureFence WA, 2025).

Maintenance

Neither material demands much upkeep, which is a big part of why both have overtaken timber in popularity. Colorbond only needs an occasional hose down, and there’s no painting, oiling, or sealing required. Aluminium is much the same, though the powder-coated finish can wear over time and may eventually need recoating to keep its appearance (Pentagon Fencing, 2025). Either way, you’re looking at a fraction of the time and cost that timber fencing demands over its lifetime.

Cost

Upfront cost is often the deciding factor, and here Colorbond tends to have the edge. Standard Colorbond fencing generally runs between $85 and $150 per metre, depending on height and finish, while aluminium is considered a premium material with a higher starting price (Timber vs Colorbond vs Aluminium Fencing, 2026). If budget is tight but you still want a durable, low-maintenance fence, Colorbond is usually the more accessible option.

So, Which Should You Choose?

There’s no single right answer, because it depends on what your home needs most.

• Choose Colorbond if: you want maximum privacy, strong impact resistance, and the lowest upfront cost, especially if your home is inland or in a bushfire-prone area.
• Choose aluminium if: you’re on the coast, want a more contemporary look, or you’re prioritising rust resistance over absolute privacy.

For many homeowners, the decision comes down to security versus style. If keeping your property as secure as possible is the main goal, Colorbond’s solid, hard-to-climb panels usually make it the stronger choice. If you’re after a fence that complements a modern home and can handle salt air without a second thought, aluminium is well worth the extra spend.

Whichever you choose, a good fence is only one part of a well-protected home. Pairing it with quality security doors and screens on your entry points rounds out your home’s defences and gives you far better peace of mind than a fence alone ever could.

An automated gate is one of those purchases that sits somewhere between a security upgrade and a lifestyle upgrade. You’re not just buying a barrier; you’re buying the ability to open your driveway from your phone, keep the kids and the dog inside the boundary, and stop having to get out of the car in the rain to swing a gate open by hand. But if you’re weighing up the cost against a security door, an alarm, or just better locks, it’s worth asking a more direct question: does a gate actually reduce your risk of being broken into, or is it mostly convenience with a security story attached?

Here’s what the research and the data can tell us.

Burglary is still an opportunity crime

The starting point for any of this is understanding how most burglars actually choose a house. Australian criminology research has consistently found that break-ins are rarely planned in detail. The Australian Institute of Criminology’s long-running work on burglary points to three conditions that need to line up before an offence happens: a motivated offender, a property that looks like an easy target, and the absence of a capable guardian or someone who might prevent the crime from being committed. Take away the “easy target” part, and a lot of opportunistic offending simply doesn’t happen at that address.

Earlier AIC research on burglary prevention identified a small set of factors that make a property look appealing or unappealing to a burglar, including how visible the house is to passers-by, whether it looks occupied, and how restricted the access is. On that last point, the report noted plainly that restricted access is one of the things that change a burglar’s calculation before they’ve even approached the front door. That’s essentially the whole case for a gate. It’s not there to stop a determined, tooled-up offender who’s planned a specific job. It’s there to make a house look like more effort than the one next door. Not sure whether a sliding or swinging gate suits your driveway? We’ve compared sliding vs. swing gates.

You can read the original AIC paper, “Burglary Prevention,” on the AIC website.

What burglars themselves say matters

Perhaps the most useful Australian data on this comes from a study where researchers actually asked people who commit burglaries what puts them off a property. The Australian Institute of Criminology’s interviews with detainees in Western Australia found that security measures such as alarms, and grilled windows and doors were noted as an effective deterrent by burglars, alongside switched-on alarms, security screens, roller shutters and dogs. The same research described burglary through the lens of routine activity theory, concluding that opportunistic burglars choose easy-to-access properties, stay a minimum length of time and take goods that can be disposed of easily.

A gate fits directly into that pattern. If getting onto the property in the first place takes extra time, or means climbing something instead of simply walking up a driveway, that’s friction an opportunistic offender usually isn’t looking for. You can find this report, “The ‘oldest tricks in the book’ don’t work,” on the AIC website.

The bigger picture on home security uptake

It also helps to look at how many Australian households are already investing in this kind of protection, since it gives some sense of where the trend is heading. Market research reported that approximately 24% of Australian households had a home security system in 2020, a figure that has continued to climb as devices have become cheaper and easier to install. A gate isn’t the same as an alarm system, but it sits in the same category of decision: spending money upfront on physical and visible security rather than dealing with the aftermath of a break-in.

This matters because target hardening rarely works as a single measure. Academic research into burglary prevention programs in Australia describes this approach as combining several elements together, including installing locks, bolts and gates to protect property as part of a broader design-based strategy for reducing crime opportunity. A gate on its own helps. A gate combined with a solid security door, decent locks, and clear sightlines helps considerably more.

Where a gate actually earns its keep

Not every property needs one, and it’s worth being honest about that. A gate makes the most sense for homes with a driveway or side access that’s currently wide open, homes where cars or tools are visible from the street, and homes on corner blocks or near foot traffic where a property is more exposed than most. It also tends to make more sense as part of a plan rather than a stand-alone purchase. If your front door is a hollow-core panel with a basic lock, that’s arguably the more urgent fix. But once the doors and windows are properly secured, a gate closes off the next weak point: unrestricted access to the property itself, including the parts a burglar might use to stage an approach unseen from the street.

There’s also a practical safety upside that isn’t about burglars at all. A self-closing Sydney aluminium gates keeps young children and pets from wandering onto the road, which for a lot of families is reason enough on its own. Beyond automation, the gate itself is worth getting right, see how an aluminium gate can boost your home’s kerb appeal.

So, is it worth the investment?

Based on what the Australian data actually shows, a gate is a genuinely useful piece of the picture rather than a gimmick. It won’t stop a determined, planned break-in by itself; nothing does. But most break-ins aren’t that. They’re opportunistic, quick, and dependent on easy access. Restricting that access, and being seen to restrict it, changes the calculation for the kind of offender most homeowners are actually up against. Combined with a proper security door and decent locks, an automated gate is one of the more evidence-backed upgrades you can make to a property, and it comes with the daily convenience of never getting out of the car in the rain again. If young children are part of the mix, here’s how to childproof your aluminium gate.